"I can remember
one crystalline morning
when nothing seemed more
beautiful than
the look,
the sound
and the
smell
of the green and white coloured Pacific.
I launched my
surfboard onto that swaying
transparency,
paddled it over the rainbow spray and the bucking
waves singing 'Shenendoah' at the top of my voice,
certain that nothing anywhere in the world could
match this
joy."
Kingsmill, quoted in
Huntsman.